New to SGUG and Octane Red Light Bar problem!

[3DChris]

Hello Everyone!

I'm new to the forums, but not new to SGIs in general. I first learned 3D animation on an O2 back in the early 2000's. I since bought an Octane system about 10-15 years ago and have upgraded it since then - Dual 600, V12, 4GB RAM, SSD Drive carrier, 1Gb Ethernet etc...
I haven't powered it on in about 10 years until today. I'm getting a solid red light on the front of the system. There's video output, but it just says, "running power on diagnostics" and never gets any further.
I pulled the system tray out to see if there was anything obvious, like leaking capacitors, battery acid etc... Nothing that I can see is wet or has any signs of corrosion (actually looks surprisingly new and dust free). I also pulled out the V12 board (with attached 1Gb ethernet card) and checked to see if there were any obvious signs of damage. Again, nothing. I plugged everything back in and made sure everything was tightly connected.
Still getting the solid light. Not sure what to try next.

 

[Woof]

The first step is to plug in a serial adapter to the console connector. This is my go-to cable with modern machines, but any USB to serial will do:

https://www.galaxus.ch/en/s1/product/15296770

This will give you a starting point.

 

[3DChris]

I'll try to get one today and see if I can find out anything. I've never connected via console before. Any tips for what I should be looking for? Or for that matter, how to connect in the first place?

 

[legodude]

Depending on the cable you end up with, you may need gender changers and/or null modem adapter. 9600 baud is standard.

 

[3DChris]

I bought a USB to Serial adapter (male end) and a female to female serial extension cable. Is this not going to work? Or will I be OK?

 

[legodude]

I would also pick up a M-F null modem adapter. It reverses transmit and receive lines. You will probably need it. (some USB-serial adapters are wired 'null', so the adapter would not be needed)

 

[3DChris]

I tried to connect my PC to the Octane via the serial cable and USB/Serial adaptor. I tried Putty and didn't see any readout on the console window. I think it's because I didn't have a null modem cable. I've picked up an adapter that's M-F and I'll try it out again tonight.
Is there any documentation about how to use the console?

 

[3DChris]

So I've got the cables all hooked up using the Null Modem adapter. Putty is open and I'm not seeing any output. Any ideas what's going on?

 

[legodude]

You plugged the serial cable into port 1 on the octane? I assume you set the baud rate to 9600. I would also go into serial settings and ensure 8/1/none/none (flow control).

 

[3DChris]

I just checked everything again. Plugged into Serial port 1 on the back of the Octane. Serial cable connected to the null modem adapter connected to the serial to usb adapter. Putty is set to 9600, 8, 1, none, none. Listening on COM5 (usb serial connection). I'm getting a black window with a green cursor at the start. No text. Nothing.
I'm getting video output on the SGI. The XIO 1Gb/s network switch is all lit up and blinking with solid lights on "AB" on the back of it. Front of the system has 3 green lights. Upper left single light, lower left and lower right pair. the other 4 aren't lit up.
Red light on the front of the system. Keyboard has no lights on and is not responsive to any num lock, or caps lock lights. No mouse curser on screen either.
Monitor says, "running power on diagnostics". That's all it's been doing at this point.

 

[3DChris]

Ugh... now the main rear fan has failed, and the system shut itself off due to overheating. I'll need to replace that before I do anything else at this point.

 

[bitpak]

I'm not an expert but I would try to start it without hard drives and see if it gets to the PROM menu.
One time I had a similar problem with my Octane and it turned out the SCSI drive was dead.
Reseating the memory modules and starting with reduced memory might help as well.
The other thing might be the dead RTC battery (https://forums.irixnet.org/thread-4297.html)

 

[3DChris]

I'll look into this. First I need to replace the dead fan in the power supply. Any suggestions for a high quality replacement that isn't going to sound like a turbine?
The RTC battery link you provided has 2 options. I'm assuming I should get the fully assembled option with the pins. Does the Dallas battery get installed in a socket, or is it soldered to the board?

 

[mapesdhs]

I'll look into this. First I need to replace the dead fan in the power supply. Any suggestions for a high quality replacement that isn't going to sound like a turbine?

If you get stuck on the fan, happy to send you a free replacement of the same existing type, I have several doing nothing. Just cover the shipping.

Ian.

 

[3DChris]

Thanks for the offer! I managed to find an Enermax fan (uctbp12p-c) from a water block. Seems to move a lot of air at full speed ~ 2300 RPM. I've got a number of these kicking around, so if one fails, I've got backups.
Just waiting for the replacement RTC chip. Ordered the fully assembled variant. Not sure when it's shipping though.

 

[3DChris]

Update on the situation... I'm not having any luck really. I replaced the Dallas battery and it didn't help. I tried swapping out the system board with a dual 400 board I have. Same problem. I tried removing the graphics section of the system and only having the serial connection to my PC connected with no mouse/keyboard. I'm not seeing anything working on my console window, but the system isn't giving a red light anymore. I tried removing some memory down to just the first two sticks... The Console then gives me errors about expecting memory, but seeing a different result. So at least I know the console connection is "working". But I can't get further into the system. Doesn't really "boot up" I suppose? I've tried removing the HDD as well. Same result.
Seems like I've tried every permutation and combination of system boards, CPU swaps, Memory exchanges, HDD exchanges, Graphics in/out etc... Can't get it to give me any output without getting a red light on the front, or a white light with no output.
I'm currently in the middle of a move and I've put this project on hold for now. I'm sure there will be some informative ideas, but I can't tackle them until at least a few months.