That's the plan! I saw some forum members offering refurbished PSUs, but could not find a list for replacement parts (yet). If anyone has a parts list for the Indy Sony PSU, it would be great. I am also happy to work on the PSU, document and share any info I can find.
There might be a listing somewhere, but I purposely do not work on the Sony's as information in this forum has proven that they are prone to allowing the Indy to overheat in several scenarios. Until someone who has electrical engineering talents can alter the fan PWM curve (via circuitry), it's likely going to remain that way. I've never been in a Sony, I exclusively do Nidec for Indys.
However I can easily warn you that assuming the Sony is built like the Nidec, it might use previous generation PCB technology which is essentially gigantic solder tracks coated in a very delicate resist. The tracks are incredibly prone to lifting unless you use professional equipment. This is especially true of the filter capacitors in the Nidec. Those capacitors use vias that have been artificially inserted through the single layer board, those vias very easily come out with the capacitor terminals unless you not only use low melt solder but you dwell enough time to rock them out slowly.
The Sony's do have some positives but until somebody figures out how to even just shift the fan curve properly, it's not worth my time.
Also to be fair, I'm not a big fan of posting material lists because it encourages people that shouldn't be inside these things to try to fix them. Remember they don't make any more of these and they're proprietary. So every unit that somebody chars the board with a heat gun or something is a unit lost permanently to time. If you have the correct tools then obviously making the material list yourself is absolutely no problem. After all most of the issues are going to be dimensional so even if somebody posted capacitor values you can't just go buy any random capacitor. You need to get one that's physically going to fit in the dimension required or it's actually smaller. Part numbers change so frequently that even when I order stuff, six months later one or more of the parts has been retired on DigiKey. That's another reason I don't bother.
I'm not trying to be arrogant about it, I'm simply saying that the barrier to entry stays where it is because these things are so easy to damage and we've already lost a huge amount of inventory already to people throwing away broken parts. It's one of the main reasons prices have radically increased in in the past decade.
Obviously it's personal property and you may do whatever with it, I just warned you that it is a project and you should expect to at least spend 10 hours or so not only removing each of those capacitors and marking where they're supposed to go but also researching their correct replacement and recording that and their dimensions and then finding something that's actually in stock at a reputable part supplier that matches those specifications.
Since your power supply technically works you shouldn't have any semiconductor issues so a simple recap should work. I also recap the logic daughterboard on the Nidecs, as there are a few small electrolytics there.
Also I don't know about the Sonys, but the Nidecs also use a very old form of stabilizer that glues several of the components down as well as holds the daughterboard down to its connectors to prevent accidental separation during shipping. About 25 minutes of my time is spent very carefully disconnecting these with a special low temperature blade on my soldering iron and then attempting to get it removed off some of the components. Some of them are fully coated in this stuff which causes some problems and some of it is just to tack components to each other but all of them need to be separated because several need replacement. So not only will you have to replace components you'll likely have to separate the old stabilizer. I replace the stabilizer with a 3M product design designed for the same purpose but using different chemicals. That radically increase my time and costs but there's a reason the stabilizer was used, as some of the components are incredibly top-heavy, a few coils especially, and so moving the system around or putting it on its side and potentially jarring it could actually cause part damage inside the power supply. So after load testing and then bench testing I batch up about 4 to 5 power supplies at once and open a new tube and start gooping up all the same locations for the same reasons.
Good luck.
